The Ben Lawers 5

10th June 2010.

This was first big ridge walk that I've done covering 5 Munros in total and taking me into double figures on the overall count (12 out of 283):

Beinn Ghlas (Bine Glaz) 1103m
Ben Lawers 1214m
An Stuc (Un Stook) 1118m
Meall Garbh (Miaowl Garav) 1118m
Meall Greigh (Miaowl Gree) 1001m

I've had this one on my to do list for quite a while, but wanted a midweek day to do it with a hope for fewer people.  When going up Meall Corranaich a couple of weeks ago I noticed a large number of people heading up the ridges line.  I wanted to avoid the crowds, so with a week off in June I checked the weather and picked what was looking to be the best day.  Boy! it was a great day, but a hard one.

I left the Ben Lawers visitors centre (now closed, though the National Trust still ask for some parking money) at 9:30 and had an enjoyable stroll through the nature reserve.  There were many beautiful wild flowers out, I wish I knew the names of them. Leaving the nature reserve the path kicked up onto the ridge leading to Beinn Ghlas.  To the left of me Meall Corranaich was soon in clear view and Meall nan Tarmachan behind me.  Great views to Loch Tay and Ben Vorlich to the south as well.

A few people could be spotted ahead of me.  One of which was National Trust guy with a spade.  He was clearing all the cross path drainage channels - really scrapping a living from the mountains!  From the top of Beinn Ghlas the path onwards to Ben Lawers and beyond could easily be picked out, though the summit was covered in cloud. The path between Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers was very straight forward and soon the summit cairn and trig point came into view.  The cloud had lifted too!  The views north from the summit (my highest so far and 10th highest munro) were awesome. I think I could pick out Ben Nevis in the far distance.

Not hanging around too long I started down to the bealach before An Stuc.  Fabulous views of Lochan nan Cat.  I heard quick moving footsteps behind me and managed to step to one side just in time to let a crazy fell runner go speeding by in just a vest, running shorts and trainers.  Don't know how those lads do it.  An Stuc was a pretty steep, but enjoyable climb and summit made a perfect, wind free lunch stop, plus munro number 10.  The views were extensive in all directions.  Whilst exhilarating, it was also humbling; such a vast area of upland and so many mountain peaks to visit.  Munro bagging maybe just a tick list of mountain summits visited, almost like a train spotter collecting numbers, but it does give some direction on where to travel in such a large area.

The descent off An Stuc was described in the guide book as being a tricky scramble. Sure enough it was pretty unpleasant and needed both hand to be used in some difficult spots.  Not particularly enjoyable at the time.  Heading up Meall Garbh and looking back onto An Stuc it was impossible to pick out the footpath.

From the top of Meall Garbh there were some great views back to the previous 3 summits.  Looking east I could see the final summit; Meall Greigh.  Quite a different mountain with more of a rounded profile.  It also looked an awful long way away. It was!  By this time the legs were pretty tired and trek across became a real trudge.  It was worth it though as the view from the summit back to the ridge was astounding. The middle 3 summits, coire and lochan all in splendid view.

There was no defined path from Meall Greigh, just a trundle down the hillside heading for a small dam.  From there much of the route home was along a pretty boring farm track.  This again was a trudge, but views of Loch Tay made up for it.  At the point where the route left the track I met up with the chap that had been in front of me all day.  Paul had driven up from Bristol the day before and was trying to get as many peaks in before his return south the next day.  Makes me realise how lucky I am to have all this on the doorstep.  Paul and I walked the final stretch back to the visitors centre.  This was a real slog and seemed to go on forever.  Just under 8 hours later we were back at the cars, both exhausted and in need of a drink!

A truly great day out in the mountains, but knackering!

Distance: 22.77km (14.15 miles)
Total ascent: 1932m  (6340ft)
Time: 7hours 35min

View BenLawers in a larger map