I’ve been looking at Ben Lomond on my walk to work for months now, thinking I’ll have to walk that one, but have always been put off by the guide books stating how over crowded it is. The over crowding is due to it being the most southerly Munro and being in easy day-tripper proximity to Glasgow. So, checking the weather for Sunday and needing a relatively straight forward and near-by hike I decided to give Ben Lomond a crack but make an early start to avoid the crowds and make sure I got a parking space at Rowardennan Pier. I also decided to take the “round the back” route up the Ptarmigan Ridge rather than up the easier tourist high way on the Southern slopes.
Sunday morning, looking out to Ben Ledi from our bathroom window the day appeared as forecast; dry but over cast with high cloud – good conditions. I left Stirling just before 8am, had a great traffic-free drive West to Loch Lomond and was parked and kitted up by 8:50. Lots of campers were just getting going for the day; cooking breakies and brewing up on camp stoves. Looking North West from the loch side there were great views of Ptarmigan and Ben Lomond, clearly showing where I was about to head.
Walking North along the “Bonnie Bonnie Banks” of Loch Lomond I first passed the impressive granite ring war memorial . After passing the Youth Hostel and following the West Highland Way briefly I soon left the main track and started the steep ascent upto Ptarmigan. You quickly find yourself onto open hillside with great views South across Loch Lomond , but you’re always very much aware of civilisation near by, with the A82 providing a sound track from the opposite bank of the loch. Quite a contrast to my previous outing on Ben Vorlich and Stuc á Chroin.
The climb up to Ptarmiagn was initially pretty hard work, but isn’t the first hour always the worst, especially when the going is up? Up infront of me a saw a group of 10 or so people straggled out along the route. The path was extremely straight forward and clear, with no real need to refer to map or guide book. This was the case for the whole walk. The rapid climbing soon provides clear and expansive views West to the Arrochar Alps, with the distinctive shape of The Cobbler (Ben Arthur) taking prominence .
Whilst ambling up these slopes (well, taking it step by step, breathing hard and sweating buckets) I noticed a walker approaching, following the same route as myself. Within 20 minutes he’d caught me up, commented on what a splendid day it was and zoomed passed me, out of sight in no time. He was probably in his late 60’s! Got to start running again.
As the path started zigzagging like a replica Alp d’Huez I caught the group of people walking ahead of me. They were a bunch of French students, mostly dressed in jeans and trainers. I wondered if they knew where they were being taken and if the weather changed how they’d get on. Further along I passed their teacher who asked if this was almost the top. I responded by saying that that depended on where they were heading. “Lomond” replied. As I pointed East to the summit she looked more than a little deflated. I was thinking to myself that it looked pretty challenging too!
The Ptarmigan was reached and the views were stunning across the Alps to the West, Loch Sloy to the North West and North to Ben Lui and Ben More. The path levelled out at this stage as it arced round to the East before starting the climb up the ridge to the summit. The path up was pretty steep with quite a few points requiring grabbing the rock in front of you. Having said that it was nothing compared to Stuc á Chroin a couple of weeks earlier. The local schists were quite stunning, really lustrous in the sunshine, with some fabulous folding on display.
I’d spotted a group of walkers on the way and stopped to say hello as they passed. They were all kitted up with swathes of Gore-tex, trekking poles, hats and gloves. They were clearly a happy bunch. The last guy told me that they were from Ayrshire and that this was their first Munro. He also told me that there wasn’t anyone else on the top. 5 minutes later I saw the trig point. This took me by surprise as I felt that there was still more climbing to be done. Sure enough I had the top to myself for 10minutes or so – absolutely fantastic. I had great views in all directions. As has often been the case on recent walks I could spot the Wallace Monument and Dumyat near Stirling and the distinctive Dumgoyne just north of Glasgow. Loch Katrine, Ben Vorlich, Ben Ledi and Ben Venue were all clear.
A couple of the quicker French students arrived on top and started inspecting the trig point. Trying to explain the purpose took some effort. I then headed off South down the highway. The view of Coire a' Bháthich was fantastic. The return to the loch side was quite a contrast to the climb to the top - decidedly dull! The sun came out and so did the crowds, though I don't think it was as busy as it could be. The National Trust were out repairing some of the path. They had an impressive little machine with caterpillar tracks for for moving rocks and boulders around.
Sure enough there were heaps of folk out on the hill and saying hello to everyone got a tad weary (I'm with Wainwright on that score), but it's great to see so many people out enjoying the countryside. Not sure if the guys I passed towards the bottom eating their picnic and getting stuck into the Buckfast made it to the top though. I completed the route in 4 hours 20 min, just about what the guide book suggested.
So that's my 5th Munro ticked off, not that I'm counting! Yes, of course I am. I really enjoyed the climb to the top via Ptarmigan. The route down is worth bearing in mind for a future walk with my nephews.
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